This is one of those Bulgarian words that is very hard to translate. It means “gangsters”, “Mafia types”, “underworld bosses”, “mugs” and “thugs” all at once. You will probably see some mutri in the streets or on the roads. In the former case you can identify them by their characteristic looks (thick necks and get-out-of-my-way expressions) and fashion sense (gold chains, expensive mobile phones, 3/4 length Bermuda shorts and leather slippers). On the road they will probably drive Audis or Mercedes 4WDs (though in the past they preferred BMWs), with the headlights on. They will listen to chalga (Bulgaria's version of Turbo-Folk music) and they will be accompanied by extremely sexy fake blondes.

This is Bulgaria's underworld. The mutri are involved in anything from “protection” rackets to extortion, “running” municipal beaches, prostitution, and smuggling cigarettes, petrol and heroin.

There are various types of mutri. Some are apparently low class (for example bodyguards to higher-position mutri). Others, especially those that have made it big, will be wearing silk suits rather than jogging pants.

Even though the police say they are keeping the mutri under control, ordinary citizens are wary. A few mutri are in prison, but many have been assassinated in contract killings masterminded and carried out by rival mutri.

Most mutri will have firearms – and will use them. The “no guns allowed” signs on restaurant doors are not a joke.

You are unlikely to have any dealings with the mutri, but be warned that if you get caught in the crossfire no one will come to the rescue, so try to disappear as fast as you can.

Mutresi

These are not female gangsters, but the wives or girlfriends of he-mutri. Usually, they are as easy to identify as their boyfriends; just look for the following tell-tale signs. They sport fake blond hair and extremely sexy attire; drive small, yet expensive cars (for example a new Mini); wear gold ankle chains; listen to chalga; and spend most of their time at the gym or the beauty salon. Sometimes mutresi can give you the feeling that, in certain cases, it is better not to understand the local language.